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Survey equipment
1. Tape measure- 5 metre preferably
2. 2 metre stick with straight edge
3. Spirit level 1 metre or bigger
4. Plain paper or graph paper, note pad
5. Help to measure long walls if available
6. 90 degree tool ie set square
Surveying Walls
1. Measure walls at worktop level ie around 900mm, check corners for vertical
2. Where tall units may go, check corners for vertical with 2 metre stick and spirit level
3. Use 90 degree tool if wall corners appear to be more or less than 90 degrees
4. Provide measurements with tiles assumed removed
5. provide total wall measurements as well as with doors windows etc
5. Measure across the middle off the room in both directions for over-all measurement.
6. Add skirting depths to wall measurements if measuring on the floor - wall to wall
7. Measure across the room diagonally from corner to corner in both directions if the walls appear to be less or above 90 degrees by a reasonable amount to help plot the discrepancy
Surveying Doors
1. Measure to the outside edge of architraves to doors for wall measurement
2. Measure the doors or patio doors etc including architraves
3. Measure height of doors including architrave
4. Note architrave width
5. Show door hinging as drawing , and if out or in-swinging
6.State type of door if non standard, ie glass etc
Surveying Windows
1.Measure width including architraves
2. Measure from floor to underside of cill
3. Measure window height including cill and architraves
4. Measure to ceiling from the top of the window with architrave
5. Measure window rebate depth ie from front wall to frame
6. Measure height of bottom of window frame from cill if cill height is below 900mm
Surveying Knibs and obstructions
1. Measure columns and support knibs at worktop level and measure for vertical where kitchen units are going
2. Measure freestanding columns from at least 2 walls at 90 degrees to each other
Surveying soil pipes and down pipes
It is important to indicate any recessed or exposed pipes that run up the walls in the unit areas if possible.
Surveying lintel positions
Measure from floor to underside of any ceiling lintels
4. Measure width and distance of lintel from the ceiling on both sides
Adjoining room functions
It is useful to indicate adjoining room functions ie utility , dayroom
Floor condition and finish
1. It is important to establish the floor base finish under removeable floor covering.
2. If the floor is old and uneven, with quarry type tiles, it is important to get the floor checked to see if it is damp, or has a soft substrate underneath, this is not going to effect the kitchen units if they are on legs , but can prevent you using ceramic tiles or solid flooring.
3. Check if the floor is chipboard , ply or timber. Also check if it is hollow underneath or solid.
4. Is the floor level where units are placed ? if not, it will be necessary to use the stick and spirit level to try to check by how much it is out of true.
Ceiling finish
1. If the ceiling is plaster, has it got any special finish or render? ie is it uneven, this will effect lighting installalation.
2. Has the ceiling got cladding and is this a false ceiling? You can normally tell this by looking at adjacent room ceiling heights and compare.
Existing lighting
If the lighting is going to be upgraded then existing light positions need to be detailed, and switch positions shown.
Gas and water meters
1. Gas meters, in the kitchen unit area, need to be detailed, and access retained when the kitchen is fitted. Resiting has to be by corgi registered plumber.
2. Water meters or stopcocks need to be detailed and remain accessible ,after the kitchen is fitted, or re-sited by competant plumber.
Electric meter
Electric meters, in the kitchen area, need to be detailed, and remain accessible after the kitchen is fitted, or resited by a qualified electrician
Consumer unit
Fuse boards or consumer units need to be detailed and remain accessible after the kitchen is fitted.
Sockets
Plug sockets need to be detailed if the layout is to be changed or upgraded. It will be necessary to provide an rcd if alterations are anticipated
Fused spurs and hidden sockets
Fused spurs and hidden sockets in cupboards need to be detailed if the layout is to be changed or upgraded.
Existing plaster condition
It is important to check the general plaster condition by giving solid walls a tap all over the kitchen unit area. If the wall sounds hollow then you probably need a plasterer. Hollow sounds to any tiled areas may just be loose tiles so check walls after tiles are removed.
Existing plumbing
Existing plumbing to washers and dishwashers, is often in the wrong position when changing to integrated appliances, even if they are staying in the same place. If the appliances stick out from the worktops, then the chances are that the pipework at the back is badly sited. it is useful to look behind, if you can, for other obstructions .
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